PNW visit 2021

I am taking a break from the already infrequent bike posts to record a narrative of my recent trip to the Pacific Northwest. Every summer, my wife and I try to get away from the intense Texas heat for a while and this year, in spite of Covid, we flew to Seattle to hike, eat, and explore. Vaxxed and masked, we proceeded to take it all in. We were not disappointed!

I'm writing this mostly to document what we did while the memories are still fresh. If it's not perfect and it's not poetry, that's OK with me.

A note about photos: Kelly and I shot many of these with our smart phones. Whenever possible, I shot my Sony DSLR with a 28mm f/2.8 prime lens. I set it on aperture priority mode most of the time and adjusted the ISO according to my lighting needs. I employed some dynamic range features for a few really tricky shots. I started experimenting with B&W mode as well. This is a new setup for me and it's the closest thing I've felt to shooting film with my trusty old Nikon FM2, which I sold many years ago. Let me know if you want to see larger versions of any of these photos.

Day 0–1, explore central Seattle

sleeps on a plane?

We flew from Austin to Seattle on Thursday evening. The layover in Sacramento was long because that second flight was delayed. Too many Covidiots in the airport not coving up. I got pretty cranky. Didn't get into a hotel near SEATAC until about 2 a.m. We were wiped.

We should have slept in, but we got up early on "Texas time" which was well before dawn on the West coast. Brownbag breakfast at the hotel and we figured out how to get a Seattle transit card. The train from the airport to downtown Seattle was smooth and relaxing. The green hills shrouded in mist kept the mountains as a mysterious presence to be revealed later in the week.

We got to Pike Place Market so early that nearly nothing was open yet. We had the waterfront mostly to ourselves. I fueled up with a tasty pastry from Eastern European bakery Piroshky Piroshky (vegan savory soft goodies!) and watched seagulls on the waterfront of Puget Sound.

Hug Someone Today, good advice!

This is so Puget.

Realizing that heading north from the city center would require a ton of uphill, we opted for a city bus to take us to Kerry Park. From this high perch, we could see for miles around the Sound and the city.

The walk back down hill through the posh neighborhoods toward the Space Needle included endless stairs.

The public spaces around the Space Needle has clean bathrooms with personality and a fountain that blasts water hundreds of feet into the air.

We passed through the Olympic Sculpture Garden and followed the waterfront back to Pike Place for lunch.

Masks are recommended if you visit the Gum Wall, not because of Covid, but because it's just gross.

askM

 

After a sushi lunch, we followed a tour guide starting at Pioneer Square through the Seattle underground. When the city was first built, trial and error led builders to create raised roads around all the buildings, so each building effectively had a ladder-accessible moat around it for a few years before they put sidewalks at street level, burying the ditches and creating tunnels. They embedded glass in the sidewalks to let light into the tunnels.

 All that walking gave us an appetite for boba tea and Chinese food, so we headed to Loving Hut. Still not satisfied, we rode a trolley to Cinnaholic for some custom vegan cinnamon buns. Thoroughly exhausted and stuffed full of food, we rode the long train back to the hotel near SEATAC.

Day 2: Rainier

Saturday morning, we got up in our typical early fashion and got our rental car for a trip around Rainier National Park. We drove anti-clockwise around the mountain, stopping at various waterfalls and hiking spots. One of the most popular areas on the route is called Paradise, and we only drove around the parking area to access it before moving on. We'll have to go back some day.

Our general route with a few of the points of interest marked.

Narada Falls

Reflecting lake

Looming peak of the mountain. At our last stop on Sunrise, which is around 6,400 feet, the peak above us looks like another planet at over 14,400.

Narada Falls

Bench Lake Trail

looking north from the Sunrise Visitors Center

We finally made it back to Seattle, this time to a house on the north side instead of the airport hotel, where we ate some delicious Vietnamese food. Did I mention we had great food everywhere?

Day 3, Squamish

We left very, very early and made for the Canadian border in our rented car. We drove through dense fog that hid mountains and bays past Bellingham to the Peace Bridge. Our Canadian border guard was very friendly. The border had only recently opened to American visitors, so we had to prepare a lot of paperwork to gain entry. Everything went smoothly as there was only one car in front of us at the gate. We had breakfast in Vancouver at The Templeton and considered our options before continuing to Squamish. If we had more time, we might have explored Stanley Park, but we instead crossed the harbor and hiked around Lynn Canyon for some stunning pine rainforest waterfalls.

The walkways and waterfalls along trails in Lynn Canyon are under-rated.

We continued up highway 99 past countless cliffs, bays, and mountains. This is the highway that mountain bikers and skiers use to access Whistler, and it was evident from the parade of cars heading back south on this Sunday afternoon loaded down with bikes and camping gear from a weekend of adventure. We probably could have spent all week stopping at these same places, but we had limited time and one main destination: the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish.

riding a in a box hanging from a cable as we ascend nearly 3,000 feet is scary-fun!

Long but stable Sky Pilot suspension bridge connects to tall segments of the hiking area at the top.

The "backside" of Stawamus Chief 

After a few hours roaming around the trails on the mountain, we found A-Frame brewery for some drinks and tacos before heading back to the US.

This is the view from a grocery store window in Squamish.

dogs don't mind traffic

The drive back to the US was rough! There was heavy traffic all the way down 99 to Vancouver. We did not have mobile data on our phones starting at the Canadian border, so we used the wifi at the brewery to start our route back. While we could look at a static map at any point, we had no updated traffic or routing info at all. We learned the hard way that there are only TWO bridges across the Vancouver Harbor. We sat and sat in one place trying to cross the Lions Gate Bridge, but it was backed up solid for what felt like an eternity. We decided to wiggle through a neighborhood to Highway 1 to attempt the Iron Workers Memorial Bridge. It was slow as well, but we were able to get across.

Note: if you're used to navigating by GPS, get a temporary data plan for your phone while visiting Canada!

We stumbled upon an African Restaurant called Simba's late in the evening. By the time we found it, we had expected to be back in the United States, well on our way to dinner in north Seattle. The mushroom curry was amazing though! We still had four hours of driving to do to get back to our house for the night. I was starting to "zone out" on the highway in some of the darkest passes. Luckily, we made it home safe with no plans to get up early on Monday.

Day 4: Olympic Park

After some much-needed sleep, we drove from north Seattle to Kingston via the ferry. Marshy coastal roads led us to the entry to Hurricane Ridge, but we were turned away because of "police activity." As it turns out, police were trying to find an armed man who was seen roaming around that part of the park. Some helpful park rangers helped us reroute to Lake Crescent, where we found amazing rainforest trails along Barnes Creek.

Lake Crescent

There's and Ewok hiding behind Kelly.

Marymere Falls

big trees

yikes!

With another long drive ahead of us, we retraced our steps along the north coast of the Olympic peninsula so we could head toward Lake Cushman on Hwy 101. Along the way, we happened upon a turnoff for Mt. Walker. We followed the dirt road as it corkscrewed up the mountain to 2,800 feet in to the clouds.

When we reached the top, we were in a cloud with palpable mist gathering on the tips of our hats. We looked out over the ledge to see cedar-covered peaks appear and disappear in the gloom.

We continued driving through little lakeside towns with creeks and fishing boats moored to their docks. I imagined falling asleep in a hammock near a mosquito-less creek and knew I'd never let myself leave. We turned in to peaceful Lake Cushman and took in some lakeside views and the occasional roadside waterfall.

 

Exhausted once again, we drove through Olympia and Tacoma on our way back to north Seattle. We found some fantastic Korean food at a place called K-Town in Olympia that I highly recommend!

We dropped off the car that night because it made more sense to do that in the evening than to drive to north Seattle and then all the way back down south to SEATAC first thing in the morning. The train ride back to the house was smooth and peaceful. I love public transportation!

Day 5: Fremont and such

Our Tuesday started with a brisk southward walk to the north end of Green Lake, which is apparently populated by domestic rabbits that have gone feral. We crossed under I-5 to The Wayward Vegan Cafe where we filled up on a hearty breakfast crunch wrap. We walked the the future home of some friends who are moving to Seattle to give them a preview of the neighborhood. We approve!

A bus took us down to the Fremont Bridge, where we crossed to find the famous Vintage Mall, Theo Chocolate, Gas Works Park, and a troll!

across the Sound from downtown at Gas Works Park

nope, nothing of interest in there.

Molly Moons' Ice cream!

A bus took us to the University of Washington campus, where we just wandered for a bit to admire the architecture. Most of the buildings were closed and locked, so we took in the academic atmosphere for as long as we could stand, then boarded an ill-fated bus to the Washington Arboretum. Unfortunately, the bridge that goes to that Arboretum was not in service, and neither Google Maps nor the Seattle transit site warned us that the bus would just turn around before reaching our destination. That kind of wasted some of our time, so we took another bus to check out the I-5 Colonnade Mountain Bike Park. This is an impressive trail system built under a highway, so it's not soaking wet during the regions frequent rains. I'd love to come back and ride this some day!

After all the vert we'd traversed over the past few days, we were not in the mood to ascend the Howe Street Stairs. We were in awe of the people who appear to do it daily, though!

We wandered back into the City Center for one last time for dinner at the Whisky Bar.

Day 6, Portland

An early ride to King Street Station near Seattle's Chinatown got us to an Amtrak train to Portland. It was a smooth ride to the Rose City and we arrived feeling refreshed. Downtown Portland's first impression is the sad state of the homeless population. It's really stark. I never felt unsafe, just sad for the people living in these conditions. Some seemed really down and out, out of touch with reality. I am sure I'd be in a similar state after just a few weeks of living out in the elements where most people ignore my humanity.

We found a kiosk that sells bus passes and headed to our temporary home on the north side to set down our bags and plan our day. It was early afternoon by the time we got started.

I was able to contact my old friend Jordan, with whom I attended high school and spent much of that period riding BMX bikes in Indianapolis, and later in Austin. Jordan was a tremendous positive influence on my life all those years and one of the few people who made it to our wedding 17 years ago, so it was great to catch up with him for the afternoon over some pizza from Virtuous Pie. He had a busy day, so he dropped us off at the famous Burnside Skatepark.

visiting a skatepark you've seen in dozens of videos is like meeting a celebrity.

Est. 1996

From there, we headed back into downtown to experience the sprawling Powell's City of Books and cool down with some shaved ice before heading to Washington Park. 

staring into the sun makes for squinty photos

flavor: "delicious"

Portland weens

We made our way out to Washington Park to experience its vast rose garden, the Holocaust Memorial, and some trails, then walked back to to Vtopia for some snacks. Along the way, we looked for a concrete panel on the sidewalk that supposedly holds an etching of Bart Simpson that Matt Groening draw, but we could not find it. Might not be there anymore. We took the bus back north for dinner at Banh Mi Up. Alberta Street seemed like hip nightlife place, but a lot of places close early right now.

Alberta St. art

Day 7, Multonomah Falls/ Hood River

Cascades Area Transit has a heck of a deal in the "GOrge Pass" that takes visitors from eastern Portland out to Multonomah Falls and Hood River for $15. We got up at our usual early hour and bussed our way out to the GOrge stop, stopping for coffee and Blue Star Donuts along the way, and boarded around 8 a.m. The bus follows the Columbia River and drops you off right in front of the falls. We hiked up to the very top of the falls, which is hard work! Eleven switchbacks and over 700 feet of elevation over just 2.2 miles.

that's a lot of vert

Larch Mountain Trail, side trail from the top of the falls

looking west down the Columbia from atop the falls.

postcard-style photo of the falls from the base

I took a risk dangling my phone over the top of this 600-foot drop. Worth it.

railroad bridge runs right past the park at the base.

obligatory tourist bridge photo spot.

top of the lower falls

few from behind a stump about halfway up the falls.

I asked a ranger about the scorched trees along the hike. She said that a few years ago, a teenager on vacation with his family decided to set off some fireworks at the top of the falls. The fire was fortunately contained, but the family will be paying off fines for many years to come.

We dallied a little too long to get on the next bus and spent an extra hour people-watching and soaking in the cool, sunny morning before hopping back on to the bus for Hood River. It seems like a quiet town that survives on river and trail tourism, plus a few breweries. The company that makes Tofurkey is also there. We had a late lunch at Full Sail before walking back to the bus stop. We checked out the Hood River skateparks on the way, which cemented my plans to start skating again. That place looks like a ton of fun.

Full Sail had tasty food and drinks. I regret eating all my fries, though. Bloat!

Just one corner of the sprawling Hood River skatepark.

We ended our Portland evening at Ichiza Kitchen for dinner, plus dessert at a bar called Bye and Bye. Both excellent!

Day 8, Oregon Coast (this is never going to end)

Another early morning took us to Bowery Bagels for a quick bite, then we picked up a rental car and headed toward Astoria in the state's northwest corner. 

day trip?

Astoria was much prettier than I expected. At the waterfront, a fog enveloped the bay and I could hear marine mammals (sea lions or seals?) barking in the distance.

After taking our fill of the Astoria Riverwalk, I checked with the internet for a high vantage point. Very few of our stops were unplanned, but an impromptu drive to the Astoria Column proved to be worth our time! The $5 annual parking pass is a bargain.

I believe this is Youngs River

View from the top of the Column. Astoria-Megler Bridge in the mist.

A short drive over a bridge took us into Fort Stevens State Park, where we found the remains of the Peter Iredale. The setting put me in the mood to experiment with b&w photography there.

Sandy toes > sandy shoes

Where's Jonathan?

Next stop on our coastal tour was Ecola State Park and Cannon Beach. We hiked around the trails north of Cannon, where we could see Haystack Rock in the distance. Apparently, scenes from The Goonies were filmed here. I tried to watch that movie recently an no amount of nostalgia can overcome the annoying fact that children yell every line of dialog in that movie. It is unwatchable now.

Haystack Rock in the distance.

Kelly always finds the best snacks.

trail in Ecola

northward viewpoint in Ecola

little creek in Ecola

A short highway drive took us to Cannon Beach, which was getting pretty busy. The dense fog diffused the bright sunlight most of the time, giving the beach an eerie feel.

Pre-Cannon Beach snacks.

Fog drifted on and off the beach the whole time we visited Haystack.

It looms.

watch where you step!

We walked the beach from north to south in our bare feet. When we exited the beach south of Haystack, our feet were too sandy to put back in our socks (ew!), so we walked the cool roadside pavement barefooted a short distance back to the car.

Hug Point is so-named because of the way travelers had to hug the edge of the rocks along the beach to pass it before traveling by modern roads were created. It's a stunning place full of cliffs and rocks to scramble over.

creek flowing from the woods to the beach

We followed the creek and I whacked my head really hard on that tree, which Kelly avoided with grace.

I think this is the passage that gives Hug Point its name. You can walk right up this ramp if the tide is out.

interesting strada of rock

Heading further south through Tillamook, we turned off toward the beaches again. We should have planned this better because it's harder to navigate these sparsely populated residential streets than areas the popular with tourists. We ended up at a rather random beach at Cape Meares in time to watch the sun starting to set over the Pacific Ocean.

Kelly is making friends with the little creatures on the beach.

making sure the tourists understand.

Following the twisting roads along the Wilson River, we traversed the Tillamook State Forest back to Portland. I can only imagine what adventure await in among the hills there on my next visit!

Last day, saying goodbye

With little else to do, we drove to Washington Park once more to hike a bit. The park is part of a huge trail system, but we wanted to get another taste of the piney woods. We found the Witch's Castle before heading back to the city center to drop off the car.

Downtown, vendors were setting up shop on at the Saturday Market with t-shirts, art, and food trailers. We were there too early for anything, so we got some Stumptown coffee and walked along the waterfront to catch a bus over to Junior's for breakfast. Afterward, we walked through the historic Ladd's Addition neighborhood. We didn't know what to expect there, but the classic houses and planned streets with little rose garden parks were relaxing.

Back in the city, the Saturday Market was in full swing with vendors and buskers everywhere. We had just enough time in the early afternoon to wander a bit more before picking up our bags at our temporary house (thanks, Gregory!) and taking a train to the airport. It would be another long evening of flights through Las Vegas before a long, restful sleep in our own bed.